Ecoprint on Cabretta Leather Using Natural Dyes from Selected Leaves and Flowers: Visual Characteristics and Color Fastness under Different Mordants

Ismadi , I Wayan Suardana , I Ketut Sunarya , Aida Roihana Zuhro , Dedy Sartono

Article
2026 / Volume 9 / Pages 961-992
Received 4 October 2025; Accepted 3 March 2026; Published 17 April 2026
https://doi.org/10.31881/TLR.2026.961

Abstract
Ecoprint, a natural dyeing technique that transfers plant pigments and shapes directly onto substrates, has gained increasing attention as an eco-friendly alternative for leather decoration. This study examines the effects of three mordants—calcium carbonate (CaCO₃), ferrous sulfate (FeSO₄), and aluminium sulfate (Al₂(SO₄)₃)—on the visual characteristics and color fastness of Cabretta leather ecoprinted using selected plant materials (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Cosmos caudatus, Cosmos sulphureus, Tagetes erecta, and Rumohra adiantiformis). Both visual assessment and quantitative scoring (1–5), supported by defined criteria, were applied to evaluate color intensity, motif clarity, and overall aesthetic appearance. Calcium carbonate produced soft, pastel-like hues; ferrous sulfate yielded dark, high-contrast patterns; and aluminium sulfate generated balanced and well-defined motifs.
Color fastness tests revealed that aluminium sulfate exhibited the highest light fastness, while all mordants produced acceptable washing and rubbing fastness for Cabretta leather. One-way ANOVA showed significant differences in washing and light fastness among mordant treatments, while rubbing fastness presented no statistically significant difference. These results demonstrate that the choice of mordant plays a critical role in determining both aesthetic outcomes and durability in leather ecoprinting, providing practical insights for sustainable leather craft and eco-friendly material development.

Keywords
ecoprint, natural dyes, cabretta leather, mordants, color fastness