A Comprehensive Investigation of Woolenization Process Effect on Jute Yarn Quality

Mohammad Abdus Salam Khan, Mohammed Farhad Mahmud Chowdhury , Anowar Hossain, Mohammad Maniruzzaman, Abu Talib Md. Kaosar Jamil

Article
2024 / Volume 7 / Pages 47-61
Received 27 November 2023; Accepted 8 December 2023; Published 18 January 2024
https://doi.org/10.31881/TLR.2023.172

Abstract
Jute, a renowned biodegradable and sustainable textile fibre, plays a pivotal role in environmentally conscious textile production. The purpose of this study was to investigate the effects of the woolenization process on the qualitative attributes of jute yarn, such as yarn evenness, and tensile and functional properties, with a special focus on the development of wool-like properties. Yarn samples were meticulously prepared from white jute fibre, categorized into three distinct count groups (C8, C10, and C12), and subjected to four treatment categories: untreated (U), woolenized (W), bleached (B), and dyed (D). The results showed that the woolenization process impoverished yarn evenness, with a significant 15.2% increase in CVm for WC8, 74% and 88.6% increase in Thin (-50%)/Km and Thick (+50%)/Km, respectively, for WC10. For tensile properties, a 27% reduction in tenacity and 176.5% remarkable elongation improvement were noted for samples WC10 and WC12, respectively. Furthermore, the development of wool-like properties was noteworthy in functional properties, including a 38.8% increase in Specific Volume Index (SVI), and a 12.8% reduction in moisture content was marked for WC8. The woolenization process also had an adverse effect on jute yarn count and quality ratio, with a deterioration of 12.5% and 32.2% marked for sample WC10, respectively. The results suggest that the bleaching process performed after woolenization negatively impacts yarn evenness. However, dyeing after woolenization and bleaching can enhance overall yarn quality. The outcome of this study will promote the use of natural fibre, and jute over synthetic and natural wool fibres.

Keywords
woolenization, jute yarn, evenness, tensile properties, yarn quality

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